After writing up The Plough at Kelmscott a couple of years ago and commenting on the superb unspoiled dog-walking countryside that surrounded it, I received the most amusing phone call from the licensee.

Apparently, I'd made the nearby Thames Path walks and The Plough's dog-friendly bar, with its roaring wood fire and amicable bar staff sound so attractive, dog walkers from all over South Oxfordshire descended en masse shortly after the article appeared.

He had no idea I'd visited the pub. The first he knew about it was on the Saturday evening when a couple walked in with their dog and made themselves comfortable. They were followed by another pair of dog walkers and then another - suddenly the small bar was crowded with canines and their masters, all resting after a river walk.

By the time the St Bernard arrived, he began to suspect this was not a normal occurrence, particularly as everyone had to squeeze up to let this massive creature in.

He took it in good spirit, however, particularly when someone showed him the article, so dogs are still welcomed into this lovely old bar by Hope, an ageing chocolate-coloured Labrador who resides there.

I returned there with Pythius-Peacocke, my border collie, and friend Liz, as the weather was good and we wanted to combine a strenuous walk with a tasty, freshly-cooked lunch, a warm fire and a glass of ale. I can report that we satisfied all three aims.

Kelmscott is a small village close to the River Thames, situated in the Faringdon area. You can get there by walking three miles down the Thames Path from Radcot if you feel energetic and want to enjoy the countryside, or simply take a turn off the A420. Kelmscott's so far from a large town that you can actually hear the silence.

Built in 1631, The Plough is situated a short walk from Kelmscott Manor, a grade One listed Tudor farmhouse, once the summer home of the artist and designer William Morris, who said the house looked so natural in its setting it was almost as if it had grown out of the soil.

Visitors to Kelmscott will probably suggest this applies to most of the beautiful old homes in this delightful village.

The Plough has a restaurant and accommodation which has been added recently, but the original bar, with its flagstones, open fire and settles, is unspoilt and totally in keeping with its surroundings.

Real ale lovers will be impressed when they discover that three real ales are on tap at all times, and those who love good food will no doubt delight in the number of local ingredients woven into the menu.

The special of the day, for example, was coq au vin at £14.50, made with wild rabbit rather than chicken.

That said, the house speciality is fish, seafood platter for two (£18.50), which offers a taster of all the fish in the kitchen, being a popular choice.

I was intrigued to discover one dish was listed on the bar menu as Comfort food dish of the day at £9.50. The day we called, this dish was steak and kidney pudding, which I chose without hesitation. I'm so glad I did. It was simply delicious. Possibly one of the tastiest suet puddings I have ever eaten in a pub.

Liz thoroughly enjoyed her jumbo portion of cod and chips (£12.50), delighting in the fact that the chips were home-made. As all dishes were priced for large and small portions, this dish was also on the menu at £7.50, but after a couple of strenuous hours walking with the dog, we were ravenous.

Yes - Kelmscott is certainly the place to visit during the winter months, when there are not too many visitors around.