Celebrating the sunshine state

3:22pm Thursday 6th September 2007

In the spring of this year, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Governor of California, declared September Californian Wine Month. The proclamation is an enthusiastic statement of support for his state's wine-making heritage and industry: "This month is a time to celebrate . . . whether you're a winemaker or a responsible connoisseur, I extend my best wishes for a wonderful, month-long celebration of California's wine heritage."

With 16 per cent of the UK market share, Californian wines sit just behind France and the even better news is that their share is rising not just in volume but in value too.

Given that only ten years ago Californian wine had a two per cent market share, the statistics are pretty impressive. What then lies behind this growth?

Brands such as Gallo and Blossom Hill have played a huge role in bringing us a taste of California. E&J Gallo had the fastest-growing wine sales of any company in the UK last year, rising 23.9 per cent, while Blossom Hill continues to hold a place in the top-ten brands.

Fantastic marketing and one heck of a sales strategy have played their parts but we should acknowledge these companies skills at knowing what it is we all like to drink.

You can barely open a wine magazine these days without reading about the rampant success of pink wines and California has done very nicely indeed out of the runaway rosé scene. For every two bottles of rosé sold here, one is Californian.

The state has a history of producing sickly sweet or medium-dry pink' zinfandels but, in typically American style, there's now an organisation whose sole purpose it is "to avenge the wrongs done to dry rosé" - RAP: Rosé Avengers and Producers.

It may all sound a bit bonkers but there's a serious message here. Members are keen to promote the quality and the possibilities of Californian pinks and they are keen that we should all know how good they are too.

The weak dollar has helped too and while it's a factor that cannot be depended upon, it has certainly helped in more recent times.

Not only has it made the wines more affordable but it has enabled more people to travel to California and taste the wines on their home turf. All of which helps spread the word.

California does still face challenges though. The figures may look rosy and bright but they are inarguably thanks to the powerful brands. What needs to happen now is for wine drinkers to take a sample of California's more innovative wines.

As John McClaren, UK Director of the Californian Wine Institute, said: "We have to bear in mind that California is not a region, but more like a nation, with a wide diversity of styles, and these have got to be expressed. We are set fair for that as there are so many creative labels on the way here."

The Oxford Times Wine Club offer case this week provides you with an excellent opportunity to take part in California's Wine Month.

It includes a little bit of everything, including three bottles of red zinfandel which is as expressive and aromatic a grape variety as you could hope to find. You can have fun deciding what it smells and tastes like and then log on to www.zinfandel.org where you can submit a smell'!

Click here for The Oxford Times wine club offers.

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