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The Plough Inn, Garsington
The chef was ill when my colleague Chris and I called into The Plough Inn, Garsington, last summer, so although the blackboard menu listed all manner of interesting dishes, we ended up eating freshly cut ham sandwiches on the patio over looking the garden. On the recommendation of a reader, however, we called again. Our only mistake was to choose a cold day, for although there are fireplaces in both bars they were not lit and there appeared to be no other form of heating. Despite enjoying a jolly good lunch, I admit to feeling colder when we left than when I'd gone in.
The Plough, stands opposite the old school and close to the Manor House where the Garsington Opera season takes place during June and July. It dates back to the late 18th century when its customers would have been mainly villagers and farmers.
Although it's a humble and very homely pub, by the turn of the 20th century it would have undoubtedly attracted members of the Garsington set invited to the nearby Manor house by the society hostess Lady Ottoline Morrell. She befriended writers such as TS Eliot, Aldous Huxley, Siegfried Sassoon and DH Lawrence and her lovers included significant men such as philosopher Bertrand Russell.
Sitting there sipping my half pint of Spitfire ale it was fun imagining all those amazing characters propping up that spartan wooden bar as they put the world to rights. Spitfire ale by the way is one of my favourites, and the licensee of The Plough Inn knows just how to look after it so that it retains that delicious bitter edge and aftertaste I have come to enjoy.
The menu on offer was not large but it contained enough choice to keep us happy. On being told that the haddock had been delivered fresh from Haymans Fisheries in the Oxford Covered Market that very morning, Chris asked if he could have it pan fried in butter and seasoned with lemon, rather than in batter as listed on the menu. This request was honoured and for £9, he was served a thick piece of haddock, cooked to perfection and resting on a bed of salad leaves. I chose the sirloin steak (£10), which was fine. The mustard and all other accompaniments - including salt and pepper - came served in small white dishes which I did find it a little off putting when I thought of all the other fingers that had been taking a pinch of salt and pepper from these open bowls.
Given that The Plough Inn is a very unpretentious establishment serving no-nonsense pub grub, a simple glass cruet set would have done just as well.
Other dishes listed on the menu included a choice of four filled jacket potatoes at £5, six sandwiches including roast beef at £4.50 and ham and mustard at the same price. Main meals included lamb shank (£10), beef stew and mashed potato (£6.50), and ham, egg and chips at £7.
Although it attracts its fare share of local trade at this time of the year, and hosts a local darts team, it is essentially a summer pub now, thanks to its large garden at the rear with its view of Oxford in the far distance. It's here that barbecues are served on warm days, and where Aunt Sally is played with great enthusiasm.
I was pleased to note a bowl of water tucked away in the corner of the main bar for visiting canines. As there are some great dog walks in the Garsington area, that was good news for me. Chris was particularly taken by this pub, he liked its stark simplicity, its small wood-lined bar on the side, adorned with old photographs of cricket teams of bygone years. He also liked the old beer stained tables, the wooden bar stools and the tiled and flagstone floors. "I feel comfortable here," he said, and I knew exactly what he meant.
8:37am Thursday 10th April 2008
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