True countryside pub with a warm welcome
9:57am Sunday 21st January 2007
The notice at the entrance requested that muddy boots were left at the door, but as I was visiting the pub without the dog my shoes were clean.
Yes, I was in the heart of dog-walking country near Stonor. Red kites circled overhead and breathtaking views of the Chilterns greeted us at every corner of our approach to the pub.
My colleague and I were in the Henley area when we decided we were close enough to the village of Maidensgrove to take lunch at the Five Horseshoes. It's a red-brick, 17th-century inn, which stands alongside the main road from Maidensgrove to Upper Maidensgrove. Its 20th-century extensions and garden overlook an area of outstanding natural beauty.
This pub is delightful, and, as expected on a cold winter's day, a substantial log fire added extra cheer.
The young staff greeted us warmly, which added to our feeling of comfort. How good it was to arrive at a pub in the middle of nowhere and find it all so agreeable.
The attractive, non-smoking dining areas at the rear of the building, overlooking a view to beat all views, are designed to make the most of all available light.
Chunky pine furniture gives a modern but stylish look, which contrasts perfectly with the older style furnishings and deep burgundy walls of the snugs and bar. Perhaps we would have sat there and communed with nature had it been warmer, but with just a thin, wintry sun filtering through the clouds, the fire beckoned.
Wheelchair users will find access into the dining area and the bar area easy, but unfortunately there are no toilets with disabled access.
As it is a Brakspear pub, we could have enjoyed a glass of Brakspear Bitter or Special, but chose a glass of house red wine instead. It was well rounded, smooth and warming.
My colleague selected the fish of the day (£13) which was a poached fillet of seabass. He was delighted to discover it was served with a generous amount of mussels. As the dish didn't come with potatoes, he ordered a side dish of the hand-cut thin fries, which added a further £2.50 to the bill. The mixed leaf salad he also ordered cost a further £2.50. I chose the charolais sirloin steak (£15.75) served with blue cheese butter, green beans and hand-cut thin fries.
I admit being surprised and slightly concerned to discover my meal served on what could best be described as a well-worn and used chopping board. Whilst bread and cheese and other cold dishes look particularly appetising when served on a wooden plate, I felt this attempt to give a hot juicy steak a "rustic" look didn't quite come off. Not that it mattered. What I found myself facing was one of the most delectable steaks I have had for a long time. It had been cooked perfectly and was so tender I hardly needed the steak knife. The blue cheese butter topping added an appetizing flavour dimension.
The day we visited the main menu included: soup of the day with rustic bread (£4), cider mussels (£5.50 and £7.50), twice baked goat's cheese souffle (£5.25), and rump of Chiltern Lamb (£14.25).
The selection of lunchtime eats, listed separately, included the famous Five Horseshoes pork pie (£8), bangers and mash (£8.50) and beer-battered fish and chips at £9.75. We finished our meal with a cup of espresso coffee, which was superb.